New York Times: Come here for the sights. (There is not a more majestic spot to watch the sun set over the Pacific.) Or come for the sounds. (The waves crash against the rocks, and the sea lions bark at one another on the bluffs.) But don’t come for the smell. “It’s so bad, it’s so bad,” said Neda Long, a tourist from Tennessee. “As soon as we pulled up, it was like, this is awful.” In beautiful La Jolla Cove, art galleries and coffee shops meet a stretch of unspoiled cliffs and Pacific Ocean. Home to former…